First, decide whether to do it yourself
Changing a wheel is a basic skill, but it is not always the right choice. If you are on a busy highway with no shoulder, on soft or sloping ground, in poor visibility, or you do not feel physically able to do it, calling for help is the safer option. Staying in the car with seat belts on, away from traffic, is sometimes the best answer. The general steps for any trouble on the road are in the article on what to do during a car breakdown.
Before any trip, it helps to know where the spare, jack and wheel wrench are stored in your car, and to read the relevant pages of the owner’s manual. Jack points and the correct procedure differ between vehicles, so the manual takes priority over any general guide, including this one.
What you will usually need
- The spare wheel, inflated and in good condition
- The jack that came with the car
- The wheel wrench or lug wrench
- The owner’s manual
- Gloves, a flashlight and a reflective warning triangle or flares, if you have them
- Wheel chocks or a sturdy block, which are optional but useful
- A board or flat piece of wood to spread the jack’s load on soft ground
Many of these belong in a well-stocked emergency kit, which is worth assembling before you need it.
Step 1: Get to a safe spot
Slow down gradually and avoid braking hard or swerving. Drive, if you can do so slowly, to a level, firm, straight stretch away from traffic, such as a parking lot or a wide shoulder. A flat tire can be damaged further by driving on it, but a few extra yards to a safe place is usually better than stopping on a bend or a slope.
Once stopped:
- Turn on the hazard lights.
- Apply the parking brake and, in a manual car, select first or reverse; in an automatic, select park.
- Switch off the engine.
- Have passengers get out and stand well away from the road, ideally behind a barrier.
- Place a warning triangle behind the car if you can do so safely.
Step 2: Prepare the wheel
Take out the spare and the tools. If you have chocks, place them against the tire diagonally opposite the flat, on the downhill side if there is any slope. Remove any hubcap or wheel cover, and any caps over the wheel nuts, following the manual.
Step 3: Loosen the nuts before lifting
With the car still on the ground, use the wrench to turn each wheel nut counterclockwise about a half turn, just enough to break them loose. Do not remove them yet. The weight of the car on the ground stops the wheel from spinning while you apply force. If a nut is tight, brace the wrench and press down with steady pressure rather than jerking. Some cars use locking wheel nuts that need a special key, so check that you know where it is.
Step 4: Position the jack and lift
Find the jack point shown in the manual, which is typically a reinforced spot on the frame near the wheel being changed. Placing the jack anywhere else can damage the car or let it slip. Set the jack on firm, level ground, and raise the car until the flat tire is just clear of the ground, with room for the inflated spare to fit on.
Never put any part of your body under the car, and never start the engine or let anyone stay in the car while it is raised. A jack supplied with the car is meant for changing a wheel, not for working underneath.
Step 5: Remove the wheel and fit the spare
Unscrew the loosened nuts by hand and keep them together, for instance in a hubcap or your pocket. Pull the flat wheel straight toward you and lay it flat on the ground, so it will not roll. Lift the spare onto the wheel studs, lining up the holes carefully, and push it fully into place.
Screw the nuts back on by hand until they are snug. Then tighten them lightly with the wrench, working in a star or crisscross pattern rather than going around the circle. This helps the wheel seat evenly.
Step 6: Lower the car and tighten fully
Lower the car until the tire touches the ground and the full weight is on it, then remove the jack. Now tighten each nut firmly in the same star pattern. If the manual gives a torque figure and you have a torque wrench, use it; a tire shop can do this check for you. Avoid standing or jumping on the wrench, which can over-tighten or break a stud.
Replace any hubcap if it fits the spare, and stow the flat wheel, jack and tools securely so they cannot move in a crash.
Step 7: Check and follow up
- Check the spare’s pressure as soon as you can. Many spares lose air over time.
- Re-check that the wheel nuts are tight after a short drive, often within the first tens of miles, or have a shop do it.
- If it is a temporary space-saver, observe the speed and distance limit printed on it. The differences between spare types are covered in the article on spare tires and run-flat tires.
- Have the flat tire inspected. Whether it can be repaired depends on where and how it was damaged.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Jacking before loosening the nuts, which lets the wheel spin
- Using the wrong jack point or soft ground
- Tightening the nuts in a circle instead of a star
- Forgetting to re-tighten after a short drive
- Driving on a flat to “just get home” over a long distance, which can ruin the tire and damage the wheel
If anything about the situation feels unsafe or unclear, stop and call a roadside service. Instructions vary by vehicle, so follow your manual where it differs.